Bleaker and bleaker as we go higher and higher

In the last couple of days before the final trek up to the high pass the landscape becomes so barren it is incredible that anyone can survive up there. The soil is so poor nothing grows, rocks litter the ground and the cold is unbearable. Having acquired the all important Hoad Hat in Kathmandu I felt pretty prepared for what was to come ... that is until Lila thought we would appreciate staying in a B & Q style shed perched on the side of the mountain ... I didn't sleep a wink as it was so cold and that was wearing two layers of thermal underwear, one thermal top, one long leeved t-shirt, two fleeces, three hats, two pairs of gloves and two pairs of socks whilst lying inside a 4 season sleeping bag. I rose yeti-like in the morning to find that my water bottle had frozen in the night...Mairead found her face flannel frozen to the door. I am pretty horrific when I haven't slept and to follow this with a hard 6 hour climb to 4,500 m meant this was my worst day

of the whole trek with an abortive attempt at crying (as I discovered it is very difficult to cry when there is limited oxygen) - the picture of Mark and me was taken shortly after I limped in to the teahouse