Having been spun load of rubbish about Battenbang being a beautiful old colonial town languishing on the river ... read instead Baghdad's twin town, full of crumbling buildings, new concrete monstrosities and unfriendly faces divided by a stinking brown stretch of water.
About 45mins on a scooter through mile upon mile of Çambodian Snow (a thick red cloud of dust that coats everything and anything) takes you to the killing caves defined as Area 3 by the Khmer Rouge during the war and where 25,000 men,women and children were held and 17,000 tortured and killed. Unlike the killing fields in Phnom Penh most of the skulls have been taken away and the caves are now beautiful sanctuaries with shrines and golden buddhas....except in one cave where they seemed to be paying homage to the cigarette...apparently the fag in the mouth is an offering to ensure good health...but maybe my moto driver was forewarned of my legendary gullability.
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